Hunt Test Hints for Newbies

Caper and I were first introduced to field training in the spring of 2000 when we took a beginner field class sponsored by the Labrador Retriever Club of Greater Boston.

Later that July Caper passed his Working Certificate (WC) with flying colors. It was such a pleasure watching him do what he was bred to do that I was totally hooked. I decided to continue our training with the goal of running in AKC hunt tests in 2001.

Being unfamiliar with AKC hunt tests, there were many things we still had to learn to be a successful dog and handler team in the field. Below is a compilation of tips and hints gathered from my own experiences, the experiences of friends, and from folks on Labrador-L, an Internet mailing list. I sincerely hope this "cheat sheet" will help other newbies getting into the hunt test game! If you have other tips you'd like to add, e-mail me. You are welcome to link to this list, but do not forward it without proper attribution. Thanks!

Hunt Test Tips for Newbies

Things to do before your first AKC Hunt Test:

1) READ THE RULE BOOK many times. You can download a copy here. This will help you know what you can and cannot do before you get to the line.

2) Expose your dog to as many different situations as possible. Find different ponds to practice in -- small ponds, big ponds, scummy ponds, ponds with lots of cattails or water lilies, etc. Do the same with fields - Work your dog over rolling hills, changes in cover, both light and heavy cover, and expose him to obstacles like dirt roads, ditches, and other irregularities in terrain which can throw your dog off his line.

3) No matter how experienced you and your dog are, be prepared for anything! One Lab-L lister shared a story about a bird boy calling in wild live ducks right in front of a working team!

4) Practice recalls and retrieves in the presence of unfamiliar gunners, throwers, bird boys, and bird crates. These can all be distracting to a green dog.

5) Decoys are required in the test, land and water. Make sure your dog has been exposed to running through, past, and around different decoy configurations. Retrieving a decoy will fail the dog. Don't limit yourself to mallards - make sure they're familiar with goose shells and other native duck/waterfowl species just in case.

6) It's not a bad idea to practice with diversion shots once you think you're ready for a test. You may hear shots fired at nearby SH or MH tests while your dogs are on the line or on retrieve.

7) Practice running off a stool or out of a boat. This is completely legal at JH tests.

8) Practice doing land/water/land retrieves -- your dog could have to run across a point of land back into water to retrieve.

9) Practice with people standing behind you so dog isn't concerned about the judges the day of the test.

10) If you get the chance, it's not bad to practice with cripples too. Every once in awhile you'll get a nasty winged duck and a pup may have trouble figuring out how to deal with it.

11) Be sure to have a good HOLD and a good FETCH it up command in case your dog drops the bird before delivery to hand.

Night before the test:
1) Get your gear together - bring a crate, hot weather/cold weather/wet weather clothes, solar blankets & tarps, bungies, clips, LOTS of water & ice, food, a chair, etc. Many sites are quite remote and will not have running water or bathroom facilities, so come prepared! And be prepared to stay all day.

2) Don't forget your favorite whistle, flat buckle collar without tags & slip leash.

3) Choose dark, earthtone, or camouflage type hunting attire for the day. Waterproof boots are also a good idea for muddy or wet conditions. You don't have to look like you just stepped out of Cabellas catalog, but you should make an effort to look like a hunter.

4) If this is your first test, drag an experienced friend (or your breeder) along to talk you through it!

At the briefing:
1) Get to the test early enough to view the lay of the land and see the test dog run. The judges will explain the hunting scenario and they should explain their expectations of your dog.

2) ASK QUESTIONS during the judges' scenario about anything that can be done more than one way. When can I put the gun down? If sitting on a bucket when the bird goes down, can I stand to send the dog? If it's a walk-up where will I be when things start to happen? How far away from the designated point of delivery can I move if needed? Etc. There is no one answer to these.

3) Ask at the test dog demo where the "delivery" zone is. Some judges want your dogs to cross the line and deliver inside an imaginary box drawn around the "line".

4) During the demo, plan exactly how you're going to come from the blind to the line and how you're going to set up your dog.

5) If you run into some new prop, cover, bird, or other condition, plan exactly how you're going to deal with it, even if you're dog #1. This helps you to stay focused, do things in orderly fashion and take your time.

Before going to the blind:
1) When possible, air and walk the dog 10 dogs before your number, so it gets warm enough to get a drink from you and not wait till it's in the water part of the test! Also, practice making the dog air before working, that way it doesn't air itself in the test.

While in the blind:
1) Make sure your dog cannot see the birds falling before it is his turn to run - this could confuse him when he takes his turn (in addition to being a violation of the rules).

2) Get your slip leash situated exactly how you want it before walking to the line. Go over your plan for where you'll walk to, and where you'll set the dog up. Talk soothingly to your dog. No harsh words or actions!

Handling at the line:
Below is the general order of activity at the line. Remember, you are being judged from the moment you step out from behind the blind!

• Take your time walking up w/dog under control on leash or holding the dog gently by his flat buckle collar.
• When you get to the line, ask any question you have before you tell the judges that you are ready. And, don't be afraid to tell the judges that this is your first test.
• Situate your dog at the line, in the direction of the first mark. Remember, you may not put your hands (or feet) on the dog to move it.
• Talk to the dog as much as you want, say MARK as many times as you want, UNTIL you tell the judges you are ready.
• When you are satisfied that the dog is steady and looking in the proper direction, tell dog to wait.
• Now, signal the judge and watch for the birds. Remember to KEEP QUIET -- you may not talk to your dog from here on out.
• Wait until you hear your dog's number, then release the dog to retrieve on his name.
• If using a leash, drop it behind you gently or pocket it.
• Once the dog has the bird, whistle or verbally cue the dog to return with it immediately.
• Quiet praise on the return is okay - don't overdo it.
• When dog returns, gently take the bird WITHOUT TOUCHING DOG. If the dog drops it, ask him to fetch and then take the bird. Remember, no touching!
• Hand the bird to the judge, then take the dog by the collar or signal him to reset in heel position for next mark. Repeat as above.
• Put your dog on leash once you are finished with the test and getting ready to leave the line.
• Always say thank you to the judges. Even if you know you failed.

GUNS
In a JH test you will have to carry a gun on at least 2 marks. Some judges will ask you to handle it from the blind to the line. Others will hand it to you once the dog is at the line. In most situations, the judges will let you put the gun on its stand or hand it back to the judge once your dog has left your side for the retrieve. BE SURE TO BREAK THE GUN OPEN before handing it off; gun safety is a must in these tests. It is not expected nor required that you shoulder the gun. Senior and Master participants will shoulder the gun. It would be difficult to shoulder the gun at the junior level, especially if you are restraining your dog.

Be conscious of where the gun is pointed. I know this is a hard one to think about with a birdy young Lab in hand, but I have winced more than once from the gallery as a handler tries to grab his dog and unconsciously pointed the gun at all of us.

LEASHES AND COLLARS
Dogs shall be steady but may be brought to the line on leash with a flat buckle collar. Dogs may be restrained gently with a slipcord, or held gently by the flat buckle collar until sent to retrieve. English slip leads, prong, choke and pinch-type collars are prohibited. Leashes, including short tabs, shall be removed before dogs are run. Running without a collar is also acceptable - know your dog and choose wisely!

COMMANDS AT THE LINE
Be somewhat careful of the commands you give your dog - repeating a command is totally acceptable and there is no rules against this but it may clue the judge into a problem that your dog may have - ex. repeating come, sit or hold are three big ones. Whatever you do, do not use any negative or harsh tone or threatening body language.

DELIVERY TO HAND
Remember this is a test not a training day so when your dog comes back to you with the bird you don't have to make him sit before you take the bird. Having your dog come to heel before taking the bird looks smart, but your dog may drop the bird and lose points. Don't get fancy -- just grab that bird from your dog as soon as it is within reach.

If you do happen to get a "no bird" opt to wait a couple dogs before you run again. Usually it's good to wait 3-4 dogs so your dog won't go to the area where that fall landed instead of where the new bird lands. If he gets really keyed up you may want to wait longer - heck if you get keyed up then wait longer.

WATER MARKS
Running the bank is not ideal, but it should not fail you in Junior so long as your dog does not run the bank on both the retrieve and the return, avoiding water altogether. If you plan to do SH work, it's probably best to "de-cheat" the dog on bank running before entering JH tests.

Many dogs drop the bird to shake off after a water retrieve. Keep this in mind as your dog is coming out of the water. Step in and grab the bird before this happens. It also helps to teach the dog to hold his bird until told to shake off on command.

Hunt Test GLOSSARY

• Air - To potty your dog prior to running. Note, this does NOT mean letting your dog run around like a nut "getting fresh air" off leash, though letting your dog stretch his legs a bit before going to the blind is probably a good idea.
• Back - a command used by experience handlers to send their dogs out on a retrieve.
• Blink - when a retriever deliberately overruns or over-swims a bird then does not pick it up and return with it.
• Carry over - When your dog finishes the first series of marks successfully, you are carried over to the second series of marks
• Hidden gunner - a gunner that can be heard but not seen by the dog.
• Mark - what each thrown bird is called. Also the act of watching where a bird falls.
• Marshall - the person managing the run order of dogs in the test.
• "No Bird" - Live birds are unpredictable, and despite the best efforts of the gunners they do sometimes get away. If this happens a "no-bird" will be called, and you'll be asked to leave the line while the issue is addressed. Have no fear -- the mark will be repeated.
• Pinning - when the dog goes straight to the area of the fall and fetches the bird.
• Series - JH tests are broken into a land series of two marks, and a water series of two marks.